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Idk but I wanna smoke with him one day.

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Spotted Joe-Pye Weed, Large-flowered Bellwort, and Blueflag.

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$0

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$ 1.22

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Not really anything will grow well inside. The light is never enough and they tend to grow long and spindly. For more knowledgeable answers try www.gardenweb.com which has Forums for every kind of plant question, free and no hassle.

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You need a large pot or at least several pots if you want them to continue to do well, and you need to decide if you want to mix annuals with perennials or if you’d prefer to have one or the other. Anything in the mint family is a bad idea to plant together. Spearmint, peppermint, some basils, lemon balm, bee balm (aka bergamot), catnip and even fennel are all going to run everything else out of the garden, if you want an of these, plant them seperately and give them lots of room. Other than that I’d keep rosemary seperate also b/c it doesn’t like water as much as some of the others. Honestly they all do better if in the ground, but depending on you and where you are some herbs do better than others in or out of pots. I would not start planting now though the season is getting to late, it’s almost harvesting time. I usually start my garden from seeds indoors at the end of January or the beginning of Feburary, that way if something should not take well I always have the option of getting an established plant. I usually then add bits and bobs that I find but I stop around the beginning of May.
I hope this helps.

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It’s time to cut back those spring bloomers and spruce up with either late blooming perennials or some fresh annuals.

Here’s an article: http://www.ehow.com/how_4407772_that-summer-burnout-perennial-garden.html

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Look for part sun plants or shade plants. Perennials – Black eyed susans, echinacea, daylilies and poppies come to mind – they are all pretty easy to grow in various conditions as long as they get some sun. Hostas are also an option, and shrubs – look for weigelia and spirea – also very easy to grow. Azalea is an option, too. Climbing flowers – or vining flowers – morning glories, an annual, are easy, and my favorite is nasturtiums – they aren’t really a climbing flower, they are more of a cascading flower. Also an annual.

All of these plants do very well in various locations in my yard, and I live in upstate NY – zone 5. Ensure that you boost your soil before planting – add some compost (you can purchase bags) and I like to add a bag of top soil. Mix it all up good, and you should be in good shape.

Please accept my apologies if I spelled some of the plants wrong. Good luck!

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As they require a long growing season, melons are best started indoors approximately 3 weeks prior to the last frost of the season. Sow seeds ½” deep in flats or small pots, sowing 3 seeds per pot. Keep medium moist while awaiting germination. Additionally, melon seeds will show better germination rates with heat. Keep the soil between 80-90 degrees, using a heat mat if necessary.

Once seeds start to germinate, lower soil temp slightly to the mid 70s, for 1-2 weeks, also decreasing water. Thin to one plant per cell or pot. Once the first set of true leaves has developed, reduce waterings once more, but do not allow plant to become desiccated.

Harden plant by gradually exposing to outdoor conditions. Transplant to permanent site in late spring after the last frost has passed. If possible, transplant on an overcast day to minimize wilting and create a more amenable environment for your young plant.

If you have long, hot growing seasons, melons can direct-seed into garden. To ensure ripening in areas with shorter growing seasons and cooler weather, choose fast-maturing varieties, start plants inside, use black or IRT plastic mulch to warm soil and use fabric row covers to protect plants.

Direct-seed 1 to 2 weeks after average last frost when soil is 70 F or warmer. Plant ½ inch deep, 6 seeds per hill, hills 4 to 6 feet apart; or 1 foot apart in rows 5 feet apart. Can plant at closer spacings if trellised. Thin to 2 to 3 plants per hill.

Prefers warm, well-drained, soil, high in organic matter with pH 6.5 to 7.5. Consistent, plentiful moisture needed until fruit is about the size of a tennis ball. Soil temperatures below 50 F slow growth. Consider using black plastic and fabric row covers to speed soil warming. Sandy or light-textured soils that warm quickly in spring are best.

For transplanting, sow seeds indoors ¼ inch deep in peat pots (2-inch square or bigger), 2 to 4 weeks before setting out. Plants should have one or two true leaves when transplanted.

Transplant at same spacings as direct-seeded crops – 2 to 3 plants per hill in hills spaced 4 to 6 feet apart, or 1 to 2 feet apart in rows 5 feet apart. Transplants are delicate and roots are sensitive to disturbance. If you need to thin, use scissors. Keep soil intact around plant when transplanting.

Mulch plants after soil has warmed to help maintain consistent moisture and suppress weeds.

If using fabric row covers, remove at flowering to allow pollination by bees. Good pollination is critical to fruit set.

Plants require consistent moisture until pollination. Once fruits are about the size of a tennis ball, only water if soil is dry and leaves show signs of wilting.

To prevent insect damage to developing fruits, place melons on pots or pieces of wood.

If growing melons on a trellis, support fruit with slings made from netting, fabric, or pantyhose. Trellising improves air circulation around plants and can help reduce foliar disease problems. Choose small-fruited varieties and reduce plant spacing.

For large plantings, leave a strip of rye cover crop every second or third row perpendicular to prevailing winds to protect plants from damaging wind.

To reduce insect and disease problems, avoid planting cucumber family crops (melons, squash, pumpkins) in the same spot two years in a row.

Do not let your melon plants get dried out during the growing season. They are not tolerant of drought. Additionally, be cautious not to over-water plants as this can negatively impact the taste and flavor later on. Keep soil moist but not soggy.

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I favor each State voting how THEY want to regulate it. Not the Federal government.

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You need to plant after the last frost date for your area.

Parsley takes a LOOONG time to sprout (28 days). So I would recommend that you plant it from a 4″ seedling or a 6 pack. The old wives tale is that parsley seeds have to go to hell and back before they can sprout!!

Mint is VERY invasive. You should plant it in a pot or in a planter box where you can control it!!!

Oregano is a perennial — be sure that you plant it where you want it to come back next year (and every year!!!)– because it will!!

Sorry, I don’t know what shiso is!!

Now here is my suggestion for planting basil, dill and arugula (and other annuals): Make your own “planting tape”. Cut newspaper into 2″ or 3″ strips. Make flour paste (flour and water mixed to a syrupy mix). Spread the flour paste down the center of the newspaper strips — then drop the seeds the appropriate distance apart onto the paste. After it dries (like the next day), you can plant the strips into your garden and cover them to the appropriate depth. It is much easier to make sure that the seeds are planted the required depth and distance this way!!

I plant basil in waves (plant some, wait two weeks and plant some more, etc). I LOVE basil, especially with my tomatoes!! I pick my basil as it is growing. If I can not use it all, I put the leaves in a colander. I “stir” the leaves every day so that they will dry. Don’t worry if they turn dark – it is what they do — it is not “spoiled”. Put the leaves whole into a spice jar after they are dry. If you crush them they will lose some of their flavor. Crush them when you want to use them.
Toward the end of the season, I let some of my basil plants go “to seed”. I put the seed pods in a paper bag to let them dry. Then I shake them or rub them to release the seeds (which fall to the bottom of the bag). Then I am ready for next spring!!

Good Luck!!!

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I grow garlic between my plants to keep bugs away and it seems to work. It doesn’t even smell like garlic.

The Muse

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What is the NT? Don’t forget, this is an international site and what you take for granted, some of us have never heard of!

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An old wise tale is plant after you can place your bare bottom on the dirt comfortably! I would highly advise you not to plant until the ground teperature is above 50 degrees. Your seeds will not germinate until they reach the 50 degree mark. How do you know? Take your kitchen thermometer (cooking thermometer and go out at like 9 AM and place it in the ground 1.5-2 inches wait about 10 minutes and check the temperature. For a newbie gardener i would also recommend purchasing your tomatoes and peppers as plants not by seed. You should be fine planting all of those that you wish to plant!
Good Luck!!

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I’m pretty sure Donna meant to say Memorial Day. As long as there is no risk of frost, you can plant. Check to see when the average last frost date is for your area.

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Not too late! Actually, you’re exactly on time! Cold weather plants can be put in now, like radishes, lettuce, peas, spinach, kale, pansies and stuff. Start seeds for tomato and peppers inside now (or wait and buy starts in may).

You can weed now, till, dig, add manure, and otherwise get ready even if you’re not planting now. Most of your tender veggies will not go in for another 6-8 weeks or so, but there’s plenty you can do to get ready, and always some things you can plant now.

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If you haven’t got a greenhouse to raise them in, it is best to buy good strong plants from a garden centre at the end of may.
They will happily fruit outdoors when all fear of frost has past.

If you have got a greenhouse (heated) now is the time to sow the seeds.
Sow into moist compost about 5 mm deep. About two weeks after germination, prick out the seedling to pots, but make sure that the compost in their pots comes up to just under the first set of leaves.

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Keep in mind that some vegetables don’t grow well when you plant them too close to certain other types of vegetables. These are known as companion vegetables. Potatoes, for example, shouldn’t be planted too close to squash or tomatoes because it inhibits their growth. They can be planted in the same garden, just don’t plant them beside each other. Broccoli inhibits tomato growth. Beans, on the other hand, inhibit the growth of onions. Carrots also inhibit the growth of dill plants.

Put the crops that produce early together. These crops include radishes, spinach, carrots, beets, and the like. Make some space for replanting successively. Once these crops have seen their yield, you can then rotate your crops and plant the vegetables that are able to produce late into the season.

Want to learn more? Go to http://www.holisticherbsinfo.com/additional-articles/

Successful Gardening!

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Parvo is very contagious. It is spread by infected faeces. The bacterial from the faeces may be trod on by humans or animals which results in it spreading quite quickly. Parvovirus can lay dormant in soil for up to a year.

Make sure your puppy has had all the required shots including the Parvovirus shot if the dog is old enough.

The virus is resistant to most cleaning detergents except for household bleach so clean every where you think the virus might have made contact.

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Used coffee grounds are not a fertilizer…. They are only a soil ammendment…. They help break up hard soils and they call in the worms to further break up and ‘mine’ the soil and their wormy poops to the soil and those worm castings are the only fertilizers that happen after the addition of the coffee grounds!!!…. The coffee grounds add a wee dab of nitrogen and a wee dab of acid, but not much of either… They just make the soil looser, so that water and air can get thru to the plant roots easier, which the plants like a lot… So any improvement there, make it look like the plants have been ‘fertilized’…. But they’ve just been made happier and they might have had worms move in…..
Soaking them in water just makes weak coffee and that does the plants no good at all….other than a nice drink of water…..